A jornalista Ana Clara Garmendia, que vive em Paris há mais de uma década, deu um depoimento exclusivo sobre o estilista alemão Karl Lagerfeld, que morreu nesta terça-feira, na França, aos 85 anos. Ela o conheceu ainda em seus tempos de glória e fala do homem que revolucionou a moda trabalhando para grifes renomadas, que o fez ser conhecido no mundo fashion como Kaiser.
Karl se vai com o peso do ar dos tempos
Especial para o portal Reinaldo Bessa
Não foi por acaso que escolhi este Portrait de Karl Lagerfeld para ilustrar minha despedida dele. É uma imagem que conta muito sobre quem ele era para mim. Conheci Karl de perto, logo após ter começado a vir aos desfiles em Paris, por volta de 2006. Naquela época, no final das apresentações, quase sempre feitas no Grand Palais, ele vinha conversar com a gente. Eu nunca o entrevistei, sou tímida, mas aprendi a ficar ali olhando a movimentação e tenho diversos momentos dele capturados pelas minhas nada tímidas lentes. Acho que, foi até por causa dele, e desses momentos de encontros, em que eu não tinha a coragem de falar, que comecei a me aperfeiçoar como retratista, não que eu me considere grande, ou boa, mas acabei atraindo a atenção dele, ali na minha frente e isso, foi algo simples, mas determinante para minha confiança profissional. Eu não tinha a dimensão de que estava frente a frente com um homem que iria entrar para a história do mundo pelo seu trabalho em múltiplas frentes. Lagerfeld desenhava, pintava, fotografava, fazia filmes, foi o primeiro estilista a não fazer carreira em seu próprio nome, mas a alcançar um lugar também onde ninguém nunca chegou. Karl era o kaiser (Imperador, em alemão). Assim como Gabrielle Chanel, teve sua imagem amplificada pelo mundo de uma maneira tão bem impressa que é raro alguém não reconhecer a figura sempre de roupas justas, rabo-de-cavalo, óculos escuros e luvas que deixam os dedos à mostra, acessório que em francês chamamos mitaines. Fez-se um mito. Na década de 90, perdeu 20 quilos para entrar numa roupa da Dior. Era a febre do slim fit que o criador não queria perder de acompanhar. Dizem que ele estava apaixonado pelo criador, Slimane, e por isso o esforço. Karl nunca casou. Teve casos não confirmados e lançou inúmeros modelos, dentre os quais Brad Kroenig, de quem virou amigo próximo e padrinho do primeiro filho, Hudson, provável herdeiro da sua fortuna. Karl deixa também uma legião de amigos, um dos mais próximos era seu homem de confiança, o francês Sébastien Jondeau, também apontado como possível herdeiro. Certo é que eu nunca vi Karl sem Sébastien. Nunquinha. Alguns anos atrás apareceu com uma gata branca, a qual nomeou Choupette. Mais uma estrela que Karl erguia.
Sobre sua incansável inspiração para criar para a Chanel, Fendi, sua marca homônima e ainda fotografar campanhas de outras marcas, além de colaborações pontuais, dizia que o seu lance, era consumir, respirar o ar dos tempos. E foi isso que ele fez lindamente, até chegar ao dia 19 de fevereiro de 2019, qunando talvez o ar que ele tanto apreciava já não pudesse mais dar-lhe o fôlego para continuar a ser brilhante, pois está pesado demais para alguém com alma grande conseguir respirá-lo. Descanse em paz, meu caro Karl.
Ana Clara Garmendia – anagarmendia.com.br
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Realizamos trabajos de torneado y mecanizado de piezas bajo plano muestra en materiales como el acero, latón ,cobre, aluminio, plásticos,etc… También realizamos trabajos de decoletaje en series medianas. Mecanizados CNC en tornos, fresadores y Centros de mecanizado.
Aspectos como inestabilidad es dinámicas durante el proceso de mecanizado, distorsiones en pieza debido a la presencia de tensiones residuales volumétricas, deformaciones térmicas e incluso alteraciones microestructurales debido al calor generado durante el proceso de corte la generación de capas con elevadas tensiones residuales y deformaciones mecánicas en superficie han sido ampliamente reportados 1,2.
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